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“How’d you get into shirts?” we’re often asked at shows.
 The answer is they’re expressive, more forgiving than pants, and not too complicated to make.



So, by popular demand, here’s a crash course on the shirt production process.

DESIGN

In 2011 we started with a collection of vintage shirts.  Our shoulder pleats and side curve, adapted from a bespoke English piece, give space for motion while remaining trim of line.  Similarly, collar, cuffs, sleeve shape and hem are purloined from favorites.  


If there’s a perfect wheel out there, why reinvent it?



PATTERNMAKING

Although it can be hard to spot differences, our dress shirt production process evolves with almost every cut, based on customer feedback and our experience on the road. Our patternmaker, Eng Gloninger, translates our instructions (i.e., “higher shoulder”) to seek the best compromise across the hundreds of different materials we use. When we make a change, Eng corrects pattern elements (i.e., collar stand or total sleeve length) that she knows will be impacted. Then she passes those elements to her husband, Andrew, to be digitized, graded and marked.

GRADING

Starting with our sample, size large, Andrew uses computer aided design to expand or contract the pattern to 6 additional sizes, creating subtle shape changes in each element of the shirt.  

At Seaplane’s start, for simplicity we made only small, medium and large.

Later, as we observed our fit on clients at shows, we added 4 more sizes.

GROUPING


Because our remnants come in different widths, HQ’s first step is to group similar widths to cut together in eventual order for marketing.

Then HQ requests markers based on the width of the narrowest fabric in each lot, because you can cut materials wider than the marker (using waste for bow ties), but not narrower.



The cutting ticket is our best guess at size demand for each print.

MARKING

After the pattern has been graded, Andrew creates a marker for each size by laying elements in the most efficient manner possible (while observing constraints like print alignment across front panels). 



Andrew has made markers for our longsleeve at 54”, 48” and 44”; our shortsleeve at 54”, 48”, 42”, and 40”; and our tunic at 54” and 48”.  Consider that each of 3 styles in 7 sizes has 13 elements — you’ll feel for the cutter!



In narrower cuts, some elements of the larger sizes (such as front panels) may not fit side-by-side, so elements reshuffle.  The result is longer markers for the larger sizes — at 44”, our XXL longsleeve consumes 58% more material than the XXS.

CUTTING


The cutter’s first step is to mark, usually with masking tape on the cutting table, the length of each size’s marker. Then he lays one layer of fabric between those marks for each unit ordered in each size, staples on the marker for stability, and uses an electric saw to cut right through the pile.



In the shirt production process, although sewers get a bit more efficient, 
sewing costs as much for the thousandth unit as for the twentieth. Economy of scale, which benefits us all, happens on the cutting table.

OK, I have to say that I am only on Facebook once in a blue moon. Like maybe really only once a year when it comes time to invite former students of my partner to our annual holiday party for alumna (so if you are reading this, drop a line). Well, I had to 'Like' Seaplane Shirts since it was a 'challenge', and since I've gotten lots of great comments from people about the shirts I wear from Seaplane. I discovered Seaplane way back when, in April 2013, when I got my first two shirts from the shopping site FAB. Sorry for the plug there for them, but they did get me started. But since then, I have shopped on the Seaplane site and have acquired more to my arsenal of fabulous shirts. In fact, when Schuyler posted a request for help at DC pride in 2014, I jumped at the chance to help out, and get a shirt or two, well actually three it turned out. And I had a friend come down who got four. Well, at least one was for me eventually. Who wouldn't ask for more shirts from Seaplane?!!! Just yesterday as I was wrapping presents for the coming holiday, I decided I should see how many Seaplane shirts I currently owned. It turns out that it is now at 13 (I think, provided some aren't in the laundry). And I've bought several more as gifts over the years, not sure how many, but I'm giving away more this season. And I know that I am getting at least another one or two from others. And truth be told, I bought myself another three on sale. I just can't stop. So, now I own 16 with at least two more coming! YEAH!!! And the new Cruise line is so great, I'm going to have to spend my spare (haha) funds on a couple of them if there are any left once the full line is revealed. Curses to you Schuyler for making the funnest shirts on the planet ! You have me as a customer, for myself and friends, for LIFE !!! Keep them coming and I'll keep on buying. So for the rest of you, GO TO SEAPLANE SHIRTS AND GET YOURSELF SOMETHING FABULOUS !!! THAT'S AN ORDER !!!

Cheers, and for everyone out there...

(Happy Kwanzaa Hanukkah Ramadan)

Harry Kwa wali Hanu mas adan stice !

(Merry Diwali Christmas Solstice)

Tommy Wang

 

Note from Seaplane: And one more shirt makes 14!







Schuyler,

Chad Frazier here.  You gave me the Royal Flush shirt for my review/story of the Mystery Japenese Pink shirt I sold at a fundraiser last year.

I'm writing to update you on those shirts.  So, we had our little league fundraiser this year and as it was getting close, some friends and I were discussing the "shirt sale" the previous year.  While we were talking I suggested we invite the guy who bought the Japanese Pink shirt last year to bring it back and ask him to resell it this year.  My thought being it would turn into something people could buy, take on adventures, then bring back with stories and re-auction to create an ongoing event every year.

The gentleman who had bought the shirt last year agreed to the plan and I filled in the emcee the night of the auction.  So, about half-way through the event as things were at a bit of a lull John, the emcee, has Joe, who's wearing the shirt, come up on stage.  John explains the plan and starts the bidding.  I was sitting up front and was thinking it'd be nice to get a couple hundred bucks.  They blew through that in the first two bids.  As my friends and I sat there smiling, the price for the shirt went to $300 then $500, by the time it was done the shirt sold for $700.  I was ecstatic.  Myself and Joe both signed the shirt and Johnny, the buyer, promised to come back with stories.

As the evening wound down, I was heading for the door when a friend of mine stopped me and asked why I was still wearing a shirt.  I laughed saying, "I already sold one shirt tonight." She said the Japanese Pink was okay but my current shirt was much cooler.  I was wearing the Royal Flush I had won and said, yeah, it was a great shirt.  She asked if I'd sell that one for charity and I told her I had already turned down $200 for the shirt earlier.  She said she'd pay $250 for the shirt right then.  Well, what can I say?  I grabbed the emcee, we collected the cash and I gave her my shirt. 

There you go.  I've now left the little league fundraiser shirtless two years in a row, but I really wanted to say "thanks" for such a great product.  Your shirts have helped raise $1220 for the kids in our town and that is completely awesome.

Sincerely,

Chad Frazier 

this just in from @LeanGreenMom! her boys in matching green fuzzies!

www.seaplaneshirts.com/products/green-fuzzies

 

Check out the enthusiasm from two blogs this week. Mom says we fit, we're fun, and we're built to last.

Sign up for our giveaway:

http://mommainflipflops.com/wore-seaplane-shirts-boys-giveaway/

Easter surprise:

http://andtwinsmake5.blogspot.com/2014/04/fun-shirts-for-boys-this-spring-seaplane.html#.Uzq9amjHdgk.twitter

Yeah
I've bought a lotta shirts from S.Brown
ALL XXL's
No children live with me
and my dog prefers al fresco
so I will NEVER order XS
I know. I know
coulda been a gift
but I learned the hard way
not to tell others about seaplane 
BECAUSE THEN THE SHIRT I LIKE WILL BE GONE
AND THEY'LL BE WEARING IT FOR SPITE
When you mass produce awhile
I will lift my guard up and tell other people about it.
Btw, Ron Wood from the Stones admired one I was wearing the other night
and Tommy Hilfiger wasn't happy about that.......

Keep up the good work and remember:
the wild ones I buy are the best ones you make!
IMHO